Day 43: Moyales – Marsabit, Kenya

‘Is it because I’m black?’

Today has been a crazy, crazy day. We’re up early and heading for the border crossing. I’ve clearly woken up on the wrong side of bed and have an argument with the Etihopian immigration officer. He wants to take my finger prints, what an injustice! Anyway, we get out of Ethiopia quite easily, and swing over the border to Kenya for immigration and customs. It’s a very smooth and easy process, up ahead is an unsurfaced road leading towards Nairobi.

What I don’t know yet, is the road’s nickname: The Worst Road in Africa.

In Moyales (Kenyan), two truck drivers offer to take my bike in their truck if I want, and numerous people tell me the road is impassable by bike. I ignore them, what do they know... More than me it seems, almost.  We grab some food and fuel in town and then head a few kms out for a picnic, getting away from the hassle you always receive in border towns. Whilst we’re eating, a guy jumps off the back of a scooter and asks us for a lift. There’s no room on my bike, or in the back of the 4x4, when we tell him this he immediately, and I quote, says: “Is it because I’m black?”

Anna and Brian are shocked, and I laugh, is this guy for real!? I show him the 4x4, full to the brim, and he gets it and heads off. As do I shortly, there’s a lot of road to cover.

I am absolutely livid, this is not a road! I’m cursing Kenya with every swear word I’ve got. The four very worst road surfaces are as follows:

Soft sand

Corrugations

Deep soft mud

Pebbles

    and this road is entirely made up of all of them. You absolute wanker. I’m lucky it’s dry today, this would be impassable with a bit of rain. It doesn’t stop me getting stuck in deep mud approx 20 miles into the road, fortunately, right next to three soldiers who come and help push me free. Thanks guys! The road is very taxing, it isn’t really a road, more a farmers track. You can only focus a few meters ahead, as you’ve got to take in so much information about the road condition, and it makes for really hard work. About 60 miles in, the corrugations that have been shaking me to bits finally take their toll on Kirsty. There’s a loud bang, I lose all power, and the seat has dropped. Fark, this trips over. I’m thinking of how I can get Kirsty to a border so I can at least stamp her out so as to avoid paying import duty. But, as I’m on my own, I may as well take her apart to have a look. And I get a lucky result. The vibrations have shaken two bolts out, causing the rear sub frame to fall away from the chassis, which also pulls the carburettor off the engine. With a handful of tools, a tyre lever and the ratchet strap, I manage to pull the bike back together and refit the bolts. Sweet as! Although I’m a little nervous as I have no thread lock, fingers crossed.... Extremely happy with myself, Brian and Anna have caught up, give me some cold water and head on. It must be over 40, I’m sweating unbelievably from the repair and hard riding, but we head on. This road only gets more ridiculous though, the biggest corrugations ever and massive pebbles are throwing Kirsty around and shaking me to pieces. And after 60 more tortuous miles, I get the same problem again, the subframe has dropped off the chassis. Pulling Kirsty apart again, it’s worse. One of the bolts has disappeared, and the nut that was welded to the frame is gone too. I set about putting Kirsty back together, but without this bolt, I’m stuck. Trip over, I’m sitting in the shade of the bike for about 45 minutes, twiddling my thumbs, cursing not having any thread lock. A CIFA 4x4 pulls over, asking if I’m OK. I know it’s useless, but I tell them I need a bolt and a nut. The driver pulls out his ashtray, I tip it out eagerly on the dusty floor. Eight random bolts, and two random nuts. One of the bolts fits, and one of the nuts fits the bolt. Unbelievable, I’m saved! I thank the guys, it’s the best thing that’s ever happened to me! Kirsty quickly fixed, and I’m off again. Brian and Anna have just caught up again too, and they’re having fun too. Both their rear shocks have failed, this road is a vehicle killer! 20 mins up the road, I run into deep soft sand, and as Kirsty isn’t running right, I don’t have full control and come off straightaway. Whilst soft sand is hard to ride in, it’s great to fall into! Unhurt, and with a little help, I’m back up once again and heading to Marsabit.

I’ve seen giant lizards, monkeys and baboons today, fantastic!

It’s taken eight and a half hours to cover 164 miles, definitely my hardest days riding I can remember. It’s been crazy, and I’ve had it with Kenya. But, in the final hour, Kirsty starts running smoothly, and I hit a nice flow over the rough road. I’m finally really enjoying the day, and soon hit Marsabit. The welcome is welcome, the hotel both reasonable and has hot water. By the time Brian and Anna arrive, I’m hungry, and we order three chiken tikkas and three beers. The perfect end to a great day.  The only thing that will hold us up from here would be rain...