Day 38: Doka – Lake Tana, Ethiopia ‘F*ck You Africa’

Cor, Ethiopia! This has to be the most fantastically amazing country ever, although it is a day of many ups, and some downs...

We’re up at six, on the road by about seven, and rolling into Qallabat (the border town) about an hour later or so. Check out of Sudan is OK, although we have to pay to get out... We’re more apprehensive about Ethiopia though, there are stories of it being problematic getting vehicles in. But things couldn’t be farther from the truth. Immigration takes about 15 minutes, and then we cross the road for customs. It’s a typical border town, lots of people milling about, it’s odd after the emptiness of the plains of Sudan. Customs is easy, the guy (dressed in jeans and an unbuttoned red check shirt) quickly stamps  the carnet, and without a single charge, we’re in. The best border crossing in Africa to date!

Then, we’re off. Ethiopia is so dramatically different to everything we’ve seen so far, and completely not what I was expecting. It is a green and lush land, but the people are the best ever. Everyone is waving and smiling and happy. It’s so refreshing. But we’re all gob smacked by the countryside, it’s a patch work quilt of green, mixing parts of Colombia, Ireland, UK and many other places, stunning.

I’m heading the group, and quite far ahead, when I have the scariest moment of my biking experience. Coming around a 60mph right hand bend, the front tyre suddenly looses all pressure, I’m sure I’m coming off. The only scenarios running through my head are of how to land on the tarmac when the bike washes out completely. I can’t describe the sensation, like trying to battle an animal. I’m not looking forwards to what’s about to happen, but thankfully I don’t have time to think. I just, just about manage to keep the bike upright, but my heart is going and my hands shaking.

Whilst all this is going on, Rob is having a bit of fun too. Heading through a village, his favourite animal jumps out in front of him. He slams on the brakes, but there isn’t any time, he slams into the donkey... He’s OK, and I only hear about it when he rocks up to my stricken bike, two lucky excapes.

We’re on the road again, riding more conservatively, and then we hit the edge of the Simian Mountains. Even this little hint of what’s about is phenomenal. It’s like cocaine for the eyes. Although, riding more conservatively is def the right approach, around every corner is either a herd of cows/donkeys/oxen or a rock fall. Intoxicated.

Randomly, we see a sign for Kim&Tim Camping, sounds good, so we head towards that. It’s a bit of a trek, approx 30 miles out of the way, and all on unsurfaced road. Unsurfaced road is normally no problem, but this road is so bumpy it’s not funny. And before we know it, Rob’s front mudguard is hanging off and needs to be tended to. We all stop so Rob can carry out the fix, a million kids surround us, just like on telly! It’s really cute, there’re lots of bewildered eyes and laughing and hands being shaked. But we need to head, it’s starting to get dark. Through another village, and kids are cheering and pointing, there’s the turning for Kim&Tim’s, sweet! Rob Roy and I head down the path, it’s pretty hard going, lots of loose rocks and steep hills. We make it. But where’s Rob? I head back in search, rounding a corner, I spot him, standing next to his bike lying on it’s side. And he’s tired. Between us we can’t lift the bike, then he notices loads of his kit has been stolen by those kids! ‘Fuck You Africa’ he screams! We spy three or four more kids, descending towards him. I ride as quick as I can to get more help, and then we get him on the road. The road is tougher into the camp, and I stick next to him giving encouragement. It’s a good effort, and we all make it, high five!

And, the campsite has def been worth it, Tim grabs us all a beer, and Kim offers to make a curry, and it’s a beautifully organised camp. We’re all very happy J