Day 82: Cape Town – Eastbourne, UK

Against all the odds, I’m not hung over for my last day in Africa, and my taxi is collecting me at a very reasonable 11:30. I’m sad to be leaving, but glad I’ve made it, and very much looking forwards to Christmas with the family back home.

Thanks to anyone who’s read the blog, I hope you’ve found some of it enjoyable, and perhaps it may even inspire you a little to get out there and see the world too!

Day 81: Cape Town

I’ve got an afternoon of wine tasting ahead, a friend of a friend is picking me up at 11:30. They arrive on time, in a sparklingly new supercharged Mercedes. I’m pretty sure most travellers don’t roll like this!

The wine tasting is brilliant, Cape Town is truly stunning, and the locals very hospitable and good fun! I’m not sure how my heads going to feel tomorrow morning though....

Big thanks to Ginette, Mark, Adrian and Pam for looking after me and being such good fun! I'm looking forwards to the next time we meet!

Day 80: Cape Town

We’ve packed Kirsty up for her journey home. I’m genuinely sad to be parting ways with her, but we’ve two days left to make the most of our time. So I’ll be starting my Christmas shopping today and then heading out to sample the CT night life....

A friend of a friend, Hema, takes me to some brilliant night spots in Cape Town. From drinks on a sandy beach in The Grand, to drinks on the side of a mountain watching the sun set, a brilliant brilliant evening. Cape Town is a brilliant place....

Day 79: Oudtshoorn – Cape Town

The final ride.

With 250 miles to cover, it’ll be our last early start of the trip. Breakfast and out the door by about half eight, it’s already hot. It’s a sparklingly beautiful day, all helped by the route 62 road we’re taking which cuts back through the mountains. The scenery is breath taking, Kirsty is faultless, the iPod playing brilliant tunes and the road inspiring. The trip couldn’t be coming to an end any better. About one o’clock we’re pulling into Gordon’s Bay, and down in the marina, in the scorching sunshine, it’s time for lunch and a pint. Perfect.

The marina’s only about five minutes from the overlander’s place where I’m staying, and I can’t resist popping a few childish wheelies during the short journey back. I don’t think anyone’s impressed!

Day 78: Wilderness – Oudtshoorn

A healthy breakfast (muesli and yoghurt) with the most stunning views, a great start to the day. And I’m aware that the days are fast running out. It’s going to be a shock to the system the end of this trip, I’m having the best time ever! Oudtshoorn is only about 50 miles away, but I’ve a few activities for the day, and it leaves a nice run into Cape Town, perfect.

The road running north from the coast towards Oudtshorn is brilliant. We’re going up into the mountains, and I so wish I had more appropriate tires to really enjoy it. But as is, it’s still great fun and highly recommended. 10km outside of Oudt, I see a sign for Ostrich Rides, suhweet! My first activity of the day!

This, has got to be one of the most hilarious experiences ever, it’s utterly brilliant. You’ve got to do it! There’s a weight limit though, but fortunately I’m 80kg (ahem) sir. Mounting the beast is amazing. A hood is placed over the creatures head, to keep it calm, and then I mount it from behind. It’s legs are so powerful, it doesn’t even notice, and before you can say “Wait a sec”, the handler pulls the hood off. Booya, freedom, run!! Is what I imagine the bird is thinking as it launches itself forwards. Wooooooo hoooooooooo, I’m riding an ostrich! For about three seconds, before being turfed off the back and onto the dirt. And, unfortunately, falling off the big bird is exactly like falling off a motorbike. To the point where I land on exactly the same bruises, ouch.

I’m offered another go, but I’m actually hurting quite a bit and decline. Although, I pretend to be perfectly OK.

Utterly brilliant fun though, and rolling into town ten minutes later, I find my hostel and get into the pool as quickly as poss to ease the bruises.

And as my second activity was going for a ride into the mountains, I skip that to help my bruises recover!

For dinner? Ostrich kebab of course J

Day 77: Cape Agulhas – Wilderness

Another tough day on the Garden Route. Scrambled eggs and bacon for breakfast, and then a 200 mile drive to Knysna for lunch. Knysna is a little seaside/coastal town. It’s not your traditional English seaside town, being protected from the ocean by some small mountainous islands about 200 meters off the coast. But we find a nice restaurant and have a very enjoyable springbok shank, nice!  They have Eton Mess on the deserts list, it’d be rude not to....

We then trek 50kms back on ourselves to Wilderness for our backpackers lodge. A very friendly place, The Beach House, has some of the most stunning views.

Tomorrow, fingers crossed, ostrich riding!

Day 76: Hugeanus Bay – Cape Agulhas

Sharks!!!!

The End of Africa!!!!!

Bed.

Day 75: CT – Hugeanus Bay

Sorry, I mean Hermanus Bay...

 This must be about the shortest days riding I’ve ever had, about 50 miles. But, I’ve got to say, some of the most spectacular miles I’ve done. And as far as ocean/coast roads go, this one has got to be somewhere near the top of any list of favourites.

Perhaps one of the disappointing things is the amount of traffic, but as we’re cruising and taking in the views, it doesn’t really matter. And it isn’t REALLY heavy anyway. Rolling in to Hermanus Bay, the GPS takes me straight to my accommodation. It’s a sweet deal, free accommodation if you book the shark diving. So I check in, and then wander down to the beach side restaurants, I’m in the mood for some fish and chips.

It’s a beautiful spot, very relaxing and perfect if you wanted to get away from the UK for some winter sun and good food. I would suggest, if you had two weeks, you could rent a 4x4, hit a safari in Namibia and then head down her for a nice cruise. Perfect.

I have an 0730 meeting with some sharks tomorrow though....

Day 74: CT

Hung over, I’m chilling out and watching movies. Garden route tomorrow!

Day 73: Venrhynsdorp – Cape Town

A brilliant kind of end to the trip. I’ll be flying out of Cape Town, but this visit it’s only really a stopover. I’ve still got the garden route and some great whites to see yet. But still, my excitement as I set off is that of making the finish.

I haven’t set myself a big task, about 200 miles. And it’s a really nice way in. About 100 miles or so of vineyards and the topography that go with them. I’d love to drop in for a glass, but ten past eight is a little early. Pressing on, all the omens are good. The perfect roads, through the perfect scenery, the first few oncoming vehicles all give me the thumbs up, a beautiful start.

Before long I spy Table Top Mountain, and the whole trip starts flowing through my mind. Tearing across Europe, sailing to Egypt, through Sudan and further south to CT. But I will save my trip thoughts for the flight home.

I kind of feel like the trip is over though, the pressure of making it evaporating as I filter into the thickening soup like traffic a big city has protecting it. Stopping to turn on the GPS which will guide me to the overlanders camp, it’s pretty straight forwards. I’m greeted by Duncan, the camp owner and also the chap who’ll be responsible for getting Kirsty home. But first, I have a holiday, to mark the end of the trip. As, this is what I’ve decided to call my final nine days....

Day 72: Keetmanshoop – Venrhynsdorp, RSA

A brilliant, brilliant day J

Up early, fed, washed, packed and on the road by ten to eight. At ten past eight, I’m stopped, this trip is turning into the puncture fest! It’s a rear this time, and half an hour later we’re rolling again. It’s not the best start to the day, but then I remember I had Oryx for dinner last night and I’m a very happy camper again!

Cape Town is probably just out of reach, but that’s cool, time is now on our side.

It’s a cool start weather wise, and the first few roads are arrow straight. I hope this isn’t the end of my trip, just chasing horizons. But, it doesn’t matter, I am feeling exhilarated. I’ve got my favourite 50 songs lined up, and I’m so looking forwards to RSA, the penultimate country of the trip (the UK under your own steam, being the final, and most important stop). But after half an hour, things start to change a little. Mountains come in to view, and whilst they aren’t the Andes or the Pyrenees, they are a very welcome change.

It’s a beautiful ride to the border, and the border crossing is the easiest outside of Europe. A trade agreement between Namibia and RSA means I don’t need to worry about Kirsty, but I think I manage to screw up my entry. I stamp in at immigration, and then ride to the border gate. The lady takes my slip and waves me through. But in the back of my mind, I’m worried about the blank space on that slip. I think I should’ve gone and got another stamp from the cops, and the lady missed I didn’t have it. Hmm, we’ll work that out in Cape Town.

RSA opens it’s books brilliantly, good roads and some beautiful scenery. It’s a welcome change after the last few days. And the mountains remind me of my first African country on this trip, the Sinai region in Egypt...

I’m so excited, Kirsty is utterly brilliant! Whilst I’ve been looking to the end of the trip in recent days, now I’m looking beyond it. A few alterations to Kirsty and she’ll be fit for another trip some day, but I’ve got work to get on top of back in the UK. But most of all, a Christmas with all the family! Although Mam won’t be pleased, I’ve left her Christmas present in Windhoek L

Today has been a perfect day for me, perfect roads, perfect bike, perfect weather (although 36c is much hotter when stationary) and, as much as I’ve very much enjoyed everyone’s company along the way, riding alone brings a certain peace and comfort to the journey. And it’s fitting. I set off from Eastbourne on my own, and now I’m riding into Cape Town that way too.  Just over 200 miles to the end.

And to top it all off, we’re finishing the trip as we started it, my first meal in RSA? Nando’s of course!

Day 71: Windhoek – Keetmanshoop

It’s not a great start to the day, we’re back to the bike shop. A few minor niggles, and they deal with them pretty well, so we’re on the road by about half ten eleven.

There’s nothing else to report for today, other than battling against a crosswind all day and riding in a straight line nothing’s happened. But that wind has been annoying...

Day 70: Windhoek

Hopefully this’ll be the last day in Windhoek. Kirsty is supposed to be ready this evening, so we’ll be keeping our fingers crossed! In the meantime, it’s some personal maintenance today. Hair cut, see the new Bond movie and update the maps on the GPS...

We’re closing in on the end of the trip now, two weeks left. I’m hoping to land in the UK on Christmas Eve, just in time to get some last minute gifts!

Day 69: Windhoek

Natalie is off sadly, so we’ll be back down to one. Kirsty hopefully will be ready to roll tomorrow, so we’ll be hitting the road again soon... Here's a nice doggy sleeping.

Day 68: Windhoek

Chilling in Windhoek, something like this: breakfast, pool, lunch, pool, dinner, beers, bed.

Day 67: Windhoek

Another day in Windhoek...

Day 66: Windhoek

Our first night in Windhoek was a very pleasant one. A nice meal and a few drinks to help relieve the stresses. Then, we’re just chilling out. Natalie is here for two more nights, and Kirsty will be ready to roll in three days...

Day 65: Swakopmund – Windhoek

We’re heading to Sossusvlei, apparently there’s a really cool sand dune and a few other bits to see. We take the longer route via Dune 7. We’re not stopping, but riding by and taking some pics. It’s a perfect start to the day, the road is interesting, and it’s pretty cool. Unfortunately the tarmac runs out after about ten miles, and we’re on to corrugations.  Probably for the next six hours...

It’s a tough road to ride two up, the bike crashing over the corrugations and fish tailing through the soft sand. It’s 110% focus, and no fun for anyone. Natalie is getting scared every time the bike slews sideways on the sand, and it’s not much better up front either. You need speed to help the bike fly over the corrugations, and the momentum to carry you through the sand without falling. A catch 22, as we don’t really want to fall off at speed. I drop the front tyre pressure after about two hours, and this makes things a bit steadier, but I’ve had enough. We reach a junction, left for Windhoek, straight on for Sossusvlei. If we go straight, it’s another half day there, and then a full day to Windhoek. I’m not keen, and thankfully Natalie agrees, sweet. A little more pressure out the front tyre, so we’ve dropped about 25-30% of road pressure, and about 15% out the back. This should help.

We take the turn to Windhoek, and within minutes it feels like the sand is really bad. The handlebars turn about 15 degrees, but we’re still going straight. But then, instead of snapping straight, the bars start see sawing from side to side, we’ve got a puncture, big style. I’m shouting, “Woooah, wooooooaaaah”, this is going to be a struggle. Natalie thinks I’m being a dick (understandable) and is whispering to herself “Stop it, stoop it!”.

There’s not much I can do though, the inevitable happens. I dodged a bullet in Sudan saving a front puncture, but this one’s too much. Booosh, Kirsty hits the dirt, followed by my elbows, head and butt. Natalie is next to me, having a similar experience. Sliding on the gravel isn’t much fun, but we come to a stop. Nothing’s on top of me, the right hand pannier definitely keeping the bike off us. I’m not winded, and can see Natalie in front of me. She’s moving which is a good start, and we quickly get her helmet off. She’s shaking, but there’s no blood and there doesn’t seem to be anything broken. We’ve both done well, only the odd graze. Looking around though, things aren’t so brilliant. We’re in the middle of the Namibian desert, there’s zero shade and zero traffic. The odd vehicle we see isn’t taking the same turning we took, but heading straight to Sossusvlei. Hmm, maybe it’s time to press the ‘911’ button on the SPOT GPS device. Although I don’t know what will turn up. We don’t need an ambulance, we need a pickup...

Kirsty has fared the worst, she’s a tough cookie, with no damage other than to the front wheel rim and right pannier. Unfortunately, with the wheel rim damaged, we aren’t going anywhere on her today.

After about 25 minutes waiting, Natalie texts a friend in the UK for the KTM Windhoek dealership’s no. Just as I’m calling them, a 4x4 pickup rolls up, with our saviour driving and nothing in the back. Heading to Windhoek, Richard is more than happy to give us all a lift. So, Kirsty and I in the back, Natalie up front. It’s two and a half hours to the KTM dealer, and it goes smoothly. It’s actually quite nice being driven for once! And I’m secretly glad to not to have to ride these roads. They pour through a mountain range, but being loose gravel, corrugated and right up to the mountain’s edge, are riddled with danger...

Just before closing, we roll in to the KTM shop. Typically it’s a bank holiday weekend, but I’m not in a rush. Brilliantly, they have a wheel rim in stock, and will get it relaced on Tuesday. They’ll also fix a few other bits, Kirsty will be like new!

Natalie and I are in need of some care too though, we haven’t eaten or drank (beer) all day. Another biker has a car out front and kindly drops us off at a local lodge. Time for a shower and then to hit a bar!!

Day 64: Etosha – Swakopmund

What a brilliant start to the day. A superb breakfast overlooking the watering hole, checking out a couple of zebra and wilder beast. Loading up Kirsty, we say our goodbyes to the other bikers, and then hit the road. We have a small group of animals seeing us off, two diuke and two warthogs running along next to us. Yee haw!

After about an hours riding, the other bikers pass us, friendly waves are exchanged. They’re turning left, we’re turning right. Swakopmund is about 350 miles away, which would probably be too far for us, but the roads are good, and we actually make it about 45 mins before sunset. As we’ve got closer to the town, we also get closer to the coast, where it’s much colder. It’s cold enough for the heated grips to come on, but as we should only have about 15 miles to cover, not worth stopping for an extra layer. Into town, there’s not much to report, other than I have springbok for dinner, yummy!!

Day 63: Etosha Safari

We rush to breakfast, a slight oversleep means it’s close to make the truck, but we do, and we’re off We’re hoping for a lion today, but it’s not a good start. The park seems quiet, there isn’t much around. The initial excitement from jumping on the truck has subsided to a slight nervousness. Will we see anything? Is this just going to be an expensive ride in a Land Cruiser...

About an hour in to the trip, and Jason (the SA biker) exclaims “Rhino, rhino rhino” WOW! There’s a cool rhino about 50 meters away, just chilling. Brilliant, it is a stunner! My expectation of seeing the lion has pretty much evaporated, but this is pretty special. Half an hour later, Jason’s at it again. This time the rhino is at full pelt, running through the bush. David (our driver) floors it, we’re catching the rhino and trying to block it from crossing the road. It’s surreal to be driving next to a rhino at full speed, unbelievable.

But, things are about to get better. About 250 meters off the track, Jason spots a lion, whoah!  David stops, backs up and heads off road to get closer. Alex (the lion) is sitting under a tree, resting. He’s a pretty big male, and turns to check us out. The nervousness has dissipated and there are grins all over the truck. This is such a special day.

At lunch, Natalie requests we see a leopard. David grins “They are like gold, we will never see one”. We’re still grinning from Alex though J

Neatly rounding things off on the return trip, a bull elephant. Perhaps five or six tons, he’s a big chap. Just relaxing down by the watering hole. Three of the big five in one day, awesome!

Still heading back, poor Natalie. I’ve entered into bike talk with the three bikers. We’re not talking about travel tales really, just pure bike talk. It’s always enjoyable, but  not too great from Natalie. Mid chat though, David slams the brakes on hard. What the!? There’s dust everywhere and he slams it in reverse. “Leopard leopard leopard!!!”. It’s quite magnificent, and not worried by us at all. There’s clambering to see it, it’s interested in some mongoose. The dream!

It’s been a pretty special morning, and I’ll happily take four of the big five, esp if the one we’ve missed is buffalo.

After all the excitement, we just need to hang by the pool all afternoon....

Day 62: Rundu – Etosha, 10,000^th mile

Brilliantly, all our wet stuff has dried overnight! High five. I do a bit of bike maintenance, and then we’re off. We’ve got about 240 miles to cover to the park, and the road is pretty much arrow straight L But it’s easy to cover the ground, and before we know it we’re approaching Etosha NP. And a good indication we’re closing on the park is the massive stag impala(?) we spot, it’s magnificent. Excitedly we roll up to the park, and are turned away, no bikes allowed. But there’s a lodge right by the gate, and as we head down I spot a group of three bikers ahead, and Natalie spots a group of zebra and wilder beast, sweet.

At the camp we say hello to the other bikers, two Canadians and one Safa, all friendly guys. We bunch together to get group discount. The lodge is fantastic, a swimming pool, beautiful huts, restaurant and a nice bar overlooking the watering hole. It’s a brilliant evening, lots of smiles and some wine.

It’s early to bed, but just in time to see the most amazing and best shooting star ever! The safari starts at 06:30...

Day 61: Kongola – Rundu

What a start to the day, we’re off on a boat in search of hippos at eight, and it’s a brilliant way to start the day. The wetlands are teaming with life, from cranes, eagles and antelope, to the previously mentioned hippos.

The hippos are all fully submerged, but they take great interest in us and our boat. There’s probably about ten of them, and when we get a little closer one of the females decides to lets us know that that’s close enough. A display of aggression, which you might easily mistake for just a giant yawn! Brilliant!

Heading back to the lodge, we do get caught in a little shower. It’s not the end of the world, but it does encourage us to have a nice breakfast before setting off.

There’s not much to report from the road, we cover approx 240 miles, we do see a pretty cool snake which I immediately think is a black mamba (more likely just something random and harmless) and loads of donkeys J

Into the lodge/campsite, and once setup, it’s still light. So we duck into pool with a couple of beers. Later on, we’re treated to the most amazing lightening storm, it’s mesmerising. That is until about two hours into it the rain comes. And as it was bone dry earlier, I haven’t put the rain sheet on the tent! Sprinting through the light rain, it quickly turns to a full on downpour. I throw the rain sheet on, but it’s too late. Wet sleeping bags and tent L The situation is salvaged though, with two dry towels and one mainly dry sleeping bag, there’s just enough for two to get comfy and off to sleep.

Night night!

Day 60: Choma – Kongola

A wild elephant! Sweet! I pull up next to the cute guy, and Natalie starts taking pics. He’s even opening up his ears! Oh, he’s opening up his ears, that means he’s going to charge...

Another, amazing, day.

We don’t know where we’re going to end up, or what’s going to happen, but we’re on the road by about seven. The roads thus far haven’t been much to write about, I’m hoping things get better for Natalie. We stop in Livingstone for fuel for Kirsty, brunch for us, and a cushion for Natalie’s bum. Fuel for K-Dog is easy, and we’re pretty easily fed at the ‘Hungry Lion’ chicken house. And then we end up buying a teddy bear (we call Weird Bear, or Weirdo for short) as a seat cushion. It’s been a good stop!

Now though, we’re heading for Vic Falls. As we pass the sign for the waterfall, I see a plastic elephant, no worries. But Natalie yelps, it’s real! A frickin wild elephant! We spin around for a closer look, and see his mates, unbelievable! Spinning around to see the first elephant again, he looks amazing. Being a bit wet behind the ears with these things, I pull up near him. He’s chilled for about two seconds, then seeing us, or hearing Kirsty, he flares his ears. It’s an amazing site, and it doesn’t seem threatening , but by the time my brain kicks in that it is a threat, the big fella has decided he’d rather run than stay. Wow, that was quite an experience, and we ain’t even in a park!

Next up, Vic Falls! Def worth the visit. It’s extremely dramatic, and we’ve come when the water level is low, but it’s still enthralling and completely devastating to see.

Anyway, waterfall box ticked, we might actually be able to cross the border into Namibia today. So we set off in search of another new country. And before you know it, we’re stamping out, and stamping in. I must say, the quickest border crossing I’ve ever experienced in Africa. Other than my small screw up, turning up with no local currency. I need to pay for road tax, but they won’t accept anything other than Namibian Dollars. OK, back to Zam, quick forex, back to Nam. We should make Kongola just before nightfall. And we do, with half an hour to spare. Looking around, we drop in to one of two lodges. They offer camping, £8pppn, but they have a lodge we can pop out to to eat on. And, the lodge, is amazing! You could come here on your honeymoon. We’re picked up in a sweet Landcruiser, and taken into the lodge. A three storey viewing platform seems perfect for watching the sunset and drinking our first beer. And, unthinkably, a hippo decides now is the perfect time to wander out of the water and stroll underneath us. My first ever hippo viewing!

OK, enough is enough, I’m not going to bore you with how brilliant the rest of the evening is, but we’re booked in for a hippo boat cruise tomorrow, so I’m off to beds!

Day 59: Lusaka – Choma, Namibia

Kirsty, whilst having two sets of foot pegs and a longish seat, isn’t really meant for two, and it’s a bit of a concern how she’ll manage the next 1100 miles two up, but there’s only really one way to find out...

As it’s the first day, we’re only going to ride for about 100 miles or so, kind of like a test run. A few minor things have to be ditched to allow enough room for two. So off goes the spare fuel can (we shouldn’t need it from here on...) and one of the two front spare inner tubes. I’ve already ditched a few other bits and bobs along the way, so the only things we need to strap on our Natalie’s backpack and sleeping bag. The panniers have handy loops on their lids in each corner, so strapping everything on is a synch. We next practice climbing on and off, and I mean climbing. Kirsty is a very tall motorbike, and Natalie has to climb off backwards, easier said than done. It’s a bit of a tight squeeze, but we’re on, and Kirsty isn’t adversely affected too much. The suspension actually works a little better, giving us a smoother ride, but we need to leave a bit more room for braking.

Heading out of Lusaka, it’s a perfect day for riding, and the roads are good. There isn’t much to say about animals or the countryside, but we stop for a wiggle every 60 miles or so, and actually end up doing just over 200 miles. It really helps getting the odd neck massage from my passenger too J  Kirsty and Natalie have been brilliant.

The campsite we eventually find is a bit odd, I don’t think they get many customers, but a group of friendly kids come to see what’s going on. And as I’ve got a Frisbee tucked away in Kirsty, it’s a great opportunity for a game! Whoop!

Vic Falls tomorrow...

Day 58: Lusaka –

Time to check out, Kirtsy is all prepared and packed by midmorning, and then we roll off and check in to the Radisson Blu. Sweet! After two months living in sheds and tents, a proper hotel is so nice, hot clean shower, towels, everything you could dream off!

We pick Natalie up about one o’clock, it’s great to see her after two months and there’s big grins all around J. Back to the hotel, it’s just us, the pool and some cocktails....

Day 57: Lusaka –

A few pics from the wildlife sanctuary, which is pretty much all I’ve done today, our guest arrives tomorrow....