Day 82: Cape Town – Eastbourne, UK

Against all the odds, I’m not hung over for my last day in Africa, and my taxi is collecting me at a very reasonable 11:30. I’m sad to be leaving, but glad I’ve made it, and very much looking forwards to Christmas with the family back home.

Thanks to anyone who’s read the blog, I hope you’ve found some of it enjoyable, and perhaps it may even inspire you a little to get out there and see the world too!

Day 81: Cape Town

I’ve got an afternoon of wine tasting ahead, a friend of a friend is picking me up at 11:30. They arrive on time, in a sparklingly new supercharged Mercedes. I’m pretty sure most travellers don’t roll like this!

The wine tasting is brilliant, Cape Town is truly stunning, and the locals very hospitable and good fun! I’m not sure how my heads going to feel tomorrow morning though....

Big thanks to Ginette, Mark, Adrian and Pam for looking after me and being such good fun! I'm looking forwards to the next time we meet!

Day 80: Cape Town

We’ve packed Kirsty up for her journey home. I’m genuinely sad to be parting ways with her, but we’ve two days left to make the most of our time. So I’ll be starting my Christmas shopping today and then heading out to sample the CT night life....

A friend of a friend, Hema, takes me to some brilliant night spots in Cape Town. From drinks on a sandy beach in The Grand, to drinks on the side of a mountain watching the sun set, a brilliant brilliant evening. Cape Town is a brilliant place....

Day 79: Oudtshoorn – Cape Town

The final ride.

With 250 miles to cover, it’ll be our last early start of the trip. Breakfast and out the door by about half eight, it’s already hot. It’s a sparklingly beautiful day, all helped by the route 62 road we’re taking which cuts back through the mountains. The scenery is breath taking, Kirsty is faultless, the iPod playing brilliant tunes and the road inspiring. The trip couldn’t be coming to an end any better. About one o’clock we’re pulling into Gordon’s Bay, and down in the marina, in the scorching sunshine, it’s time for lunch and a pint. Perfect.

The marina’s only about five minutes from the overlander’s place where I’m staying, and I can’t resist popping a few childish wheelies during the short journey back. I don’t think anyone’s impressed!

Day 78: Wilderness – Oudtshoorn

A healthy breakfast (muesli and yoghurt) with the most stunning views, a great start to the day. And I’m aware that the days are fast running out. It’s going to be a shock to the system the end of this trip, I’m having the best time ever! Oudtshoorn is only about 50 miles away, but I’ve a few activities for the day, and it leaves a nice run into Cape Town, perfect.

The road running north from the coast towards Oudtshorn is brilliant. We’re going up into the mountains, and I so wish I had more appropriate tires to really enjoy it. But as is, it’s still great fun and highly recommended. 10km outside of Oudt, I see a sign for Ostrich Rides, suhweet! My first activity of the day!

This, has got to be one of the most hilarious experiences ever, it’s utterly brilliant. You’ve got to do it! There’s a weight limit though, but fortunately I’m 80kg (ahem) sir. Mounting the beast is amazing. A hood is placed over the creatures head, to keep it calm, and then I mount it from behind. It’s legs are so powerful, it doesn’t even notice, and before you can say “Wait a sec”, the handler pulls the hood off. Booya, freedom, run!! Is what I imagine the bird is thinking as it launches itself forwards. Wooooooo hoooooooooo, I’m riding an ostrich! For about three seconds, before being turfed off the back and onto the dirt. And, unfortunately, falling off the big bird is exactly like falling off a motorbike. To the point where I land on exactly the same bruises, ouch.

I’m offered another go, but I’m actually hurting quite a bit and decline. Although, I pretend to be perfectly OK.

Utterly brilliant fun though, and rolling into town ten minutes later, I find my hostel and get into the pool as quickly as poss to ease the bruises.

And as my second activity was going for a ride into the mountains, I skip that to help my bruises recover!

For dinner? Ostrich kebab of course J

Day 77: Cape Agulhas – Wilderness

Another tough day on the Garden Route. Scrambled eggs and bacon for breakfast, and then a 200 mile drive to Knysna for lunch. Knysna is a little seaside/coastal town. It’s not your traditional English seaside town, being protected from the ocean by some small mountainous islands about 200 meters off the coast. But we find a nice restaurant and have a very enjoyable springbok shank, nice!  They have Eton Mess on the deserts list, it’d be rude not to....

We then trek 50kms back on ourselves to Wilderness for our backpackers lodge. A very friendly place, The Beach House, has some of the most stunning views.

Tomorrow, fingers crossed, ostrich riding!

Day 76: Hugeanus Bay – Cape Agulhas

Sharks!!!!

The End of Africa!!!!!

Bed.

Day 75: CT – Hugeanus Bay

Sorry, I mean Hermanus Bay...

 This must be about the shortest days riding I’ve ever had, about 50 miles. But, I’ve got to say, some of the most spectacular miles I’ve done. And as far as ocean/coast roads go, this one has got to be somewhere near the top of any list of favourites.

Perhaps one of the disappointing things is the amount of traffic, but as we’re cruising and taking in the views, it doesn’t really matter. And it isn’t REALLY heavy anyway. Rolling in to Hermanus Bay, the GPS takes me straight to my accommodation. It’s a sweet deal, free accommodation if you book the shark diving. So I check in, and then wander down to the beach side restaurants, I’m in the mood for some fish and chips.

It’s a beautiful spot, very relaxing and perfect if you wanted to get away from the UK for some winter sun and good food. I would suggest, if you had two weeks, you could rent a 4x4, hit a safari in Namibia and then head down her for a nice cruise. Perfect.

I have an 0730 meeting with some sharks tomorrow though....

Day 74: CT

Hung over, I’m chilling out and watching movies. Garden route tomorrow!

Day 73: Venrhynsdorp – Cape Town

A brilliant kind of end to the trip. I’ll be flying out of Cape Town, but this visit it’s only really a stopover. I’ve still got the garden route and some great whites to see yet. But still, my excitement as I set off is that of making the finish.

I haven’t set myself a big task, about 200 miles. And it’s a really nice way in. About 100 miles or so of vineyards and the topography that go with them. I’d love to drop in for a glass, but ten past eight is a little early. Pressing on, all the omens are good. The perfect roads, through the perfect scenery, the first few oncoming vehicles all give me the thumbs up, a beautiful start.

Before long I spy Table Top Mountain, and the whole trip starts flowing through my mind. Tearing across Europe, sailing to Egypt, through Sudan and further south to CT. But I will save my trip thoughts for the flight home.

I kind of feel like the trip is over though, the pressure of making it evaporating as I filter into the thickening soup like traffic a big city has protecting it. Stopping to turn on the GPS which will guide me to the overlanders camp, it’s pretty straight forwards. I’m greeted by Duncan, the camp owner and also the chap who’ll be responsible for getting Kirsty home. But first, I have a holiday, to mark the end of the trip. As, this is what I’ve decided to call my final nine days....

Day 72: Keetmanshoop – Venrhynsdorp, RSA

A brilliant, brilliant day J

Up early, fed, washed, packed and on the road by ten to eight. At ten past eight, I’m stopped, this trip is turning into the puncture fest! It’s a rear this time, and half an hour later we’re rolling again. It’s not the best start to the day, but then I remember I had Oryx for dinner last night and I’m a very happy camper again!

Cape Town is probably just out of reach, but that’s cool, time is now on our side.

It’s a cool start weather wise, and the first few roads are arrow straight. I hope this isn’t the end of my trip, just chasing horizons. But, it doesn’t matter, I am feeling exhilarated. I’ve got my favourite 50 songs lined up, and I’m so looking forwards to RSA, the penultimate country of the trip (the UK under your own steam, being the final, and most important stop). But after half an hour, things start to change a little. Mountains come in to view, and whilst they aren’t the Andes or the Pyrenees, they are a very welcome change.

It’s a beautiful ride to the border, and the border crossing is the easiest outside of Europe. A trade agreement between Namibia and RSA means I don’t need to worry about Kirsty, but I think I manage to screw up my entry. I stamp in at immigration, and then ride to the border gate. The lady takes my slip and waves me through. But in the back of my mind, I’m worried about the blank space on that slip. I think I should’ve gone and got another stamp from the cops, and the lady missed I didn’t have it. Hmm, we’ll work that out in Cape Town.

RSA opens it’s books brilliantly, good roads and some beautiful scenery. It’s a welcome change after the last few days. And the mountains remind me of my first African country on this trip, the Sinai region in Egypt...

I’m so excited, Kirsty is utterly brilliant! Whilst I’ve been looking to the end of the trip in recent days, now I’m looking beyond it. A few alterations to Kirsty and she’ll be fit for another trip some day, but I’ve got work to get on top of back in the UK. But most of all, a Christmas with all the family! Although Mam won’t be pleased, I’ve left her Christmas present in Windhoek L

Today has been a perfect day for me, perfect roads, perfect bike, perfect weather (although 36c is much hotter when stationary) and, as much as I’ve very much enjoyed everyone’s company along the way, riding alone brings a certain peace and comfort to the journey. And it’s fitting. I set off from Eastbourne on my own, and now I’m riding into Cape Town that way too.  Just over 200 miles to the end.

And to top it all off, we’re finishing the trip as we started it, my first meal in RSA? Nando’s of course!

Day 71: Windhoek – Keetmanshoop

It’s not a great start to the day, we’re back to the bike shop. A few minor niggles, and they deal with them pretty well, so we’re on the road by about half ten eleven.

There’s nothing else to report for today, other than battling against a crosswind all day and riding in a straight line nothing’s happened. But that wind has been annoying...

Day 70: Windhoek

Hopefully this’ll be the last day in Windhoek. Kirsty is supposed to be ready this evening, so we’ll be keeping our fingers crossed! In the meantime, it’s some personal maintenance today. Hair cut, see the new Bond movie and update the maps on the GPS...

We’re closing in on the end of the trip now, two weeks left. I’m hoping to land in the UK on Christmas Eve, just in time to get some last minute gifts!

Day 69: Windhoek

Natalie is off sadly, so we’ll be back down to one. Kirsty hopefully will be ready to roll tomorrow, so we’ll be hitting the road again soon... Here's a nice doggy sleeping.

Day 68: Windhoek

Chilling in Windhoek, something like this: breakfast, pool, lunch, pool, dinner, beers, bed.

Day 67: Windhoek

Another day in Windhoek...

Day 66: Windhoek

Our first night in Windhoek was a very pleasant one. A nice meal and a few drinks to help relieve the stresses. Then, we’re just chilling out. Natalie is here for two more nights, and Kirsty will be ready to roll in three days...

Day 65: Swakopmund – Windhoek

We’re heading to Sossusvlei, apparently there’s a really cool sand dune and a few other bits to see. We take the longer route via Dune 7. We’re not stopping, but riding by and taking some pics. It’s a perfect start to the day, the road is interesting, and it’s pretty cool. Unfortunately the tarmac runs out after about ten miles, and we’re on to corrugations.  Probably for the next six hours...

It’s a tough road to ride two up, the bike crashing over the corrugations and fish tailing through the soft sand. It’s 110% focus, and no fun for anyone. Natalie is getting scared every time the bike slews sideways on the sand, and it’s not much better up front either. You need speed to help the bike fly over the corrugations, and the momentum to carry you through the sand without falling. A catch 22, as we don’t really want to fall off at speed. I drop the front tyre pressure after about two hours, and this makes things a bit steadier, but I’ve had enough. We reach a junction, left for Windhoek, straight on for Sossusvlei. If we go straight, it’s another half day there, and then a full day to Windhoek. I’m not keen, and thankfully Natalie agrees, sweet. A little more pressure out the front tyre, so we’ve dropped about 25-30% of road pressure, and about 15% out the back. This should help.

We take the turn to Windhoek, and within minutes it feels like the sand is really bad. The handlebars turn about 15 degrees, but we’re still going straight. But then, instead of snapping straight, the bars start see sawing from side to side, we’ve got a puncture, big style. I’m shouting, “Woooah, wooooooaaaah”, this is going to be a struggle. Natalie thinks I’m being a dick (understandable) and is whispering to herself “Stop it, stoop it!”.

There’s not much I can do though, the inevitable happens. I dodged a bullet in Sudan saving a front puncture, but this one’s too much. Booosh, Kirsty hits the dirt, followed by my elbows, head and butt. Natalie is next to me, having a similar experience. Sliding on the gravel isn’t much fun, but we come to a stop. Nothing’s on top of me, the right hand pannier definitely keeping the bike off us. I’m not winded, and can see Natalie in front of me. She’s moving which is a good start, and we quickly get her helmet off. She’s shaking, but there’s no blood and there doesn’t seem to be anything broken. We’ve both done well, only the odd graze. Looking around though, things aren’t so brilliant. We’re in the middle of the Namibian desert, there’s zero shade and zero traffic. The odd vehicle we see isn’t taking the same turning we took, but heading straight to Sossusvlei. Hmm, maybe it’s time to press the ‘911’ button on the SPOT GPS device. Although I don’t know what will turn up. We don’t need an ambulance, we need a pickup...

Kirsty has fared the worst, she’s a tough cookie, with no damage other than to the front wheel rim and right pannier. Unfortunately, with the wheel rim damaged, we aren’t going anywhere on her today.

After about 25 minutes waiting, Natalie texts a friend in the UK for the KTM Windhoek dealership’s no. Just as I’m calling them, a 4x4 pickup rolls up, with our saviour driving and nothing in the back. Heading to Windhoek, Richard is more than happy to give us all a lift. So, Kirsty and I in the back, Natalie up front. It’s two and a half hours to the KTM dealer, and it goes smoothly. It’s actually quite nice being driven for once! And I’m secretly glad to not to have to ride these roads. They pour through a mountain range, but being loose gravel, corrugated and right up to the mountain’s edge, are riddled with danger...

Just before closing, we roll in to the KTM shop. Typically it’s a bank holiday weekend, but I’m not in a rush. Brilliantly, they have a wheel rim in stock, and will get it relaced on Tuesday. They’ll also fix a few other bits, Kirsty will be like new!

Natalie and I are in need of some care too though, we haven’t eaten or drank (beer) all day. Another biker has a car out front and kindly drops us off at a local lodge. Time for a shower and then to hit a bar!!

Day 64: Etosha – Swakopmund

What a brilliant start to the day. A superb breakfast overlooking the watering hole, checking out a couple of zebra and wilder beast. Loading up Kirsty, we say our goodbyes to the other bikers, and then hit the road. We have a small group of animals seeing us off, two diuke and two warthogs running along next to us. Yee haw!

After about an hours riding, the other bikers pass us, friendly waves are exchanged. They’re turning left, we’re turning right. Swakopmund is about 350 miles away, which would probably be too far for us, but the roads are good, and we actually make it about 45 mins before sunset. As we’ve got closer to the town, we also get closer to the coast, where it’s much colder. It’s cold enough for the heated grips to come on, but as we should only have about 15 miles to cover, not worth stopping for an extra layer. Into town, there’s not much to report, other than I have springbok for dinner, yummy!!

Day 63: Etosha Safari

We rush to breakfast, a slight oversleep means it’s close to make the truck, but we do, and we’re off We’re hoping for a lion today, but it’s not a good start. The park seems quiet, there isn’t much around. The initial excitement from jumping on the truck has subsided to a slight nervousness. Will we see anything? Is this just going to be an expensive ride in a Land Cruiser...

About an hour in to the trip, and Jason (the SA biker) exclaims “Rhino, rhino rhino” WOW! There’s a cool rhino about 50 meters away, just chilling. Brilliant, it is a stunner! My expectation of seeing the lion has pretty much evaporated, but this is pretty special. Half an hour later, Jason’s at it again. This time the rhino is at full pelt, running through the bush. David (our driver) floors it, we’re catching the rhino and trying to block it from crossing the road. It’s surreal to be driving next to a rhino at full speed, unbelievable.

But, things are about to get better. About 250 meters off the track, Jason spots a lion, whoah!  David stops, backs up and heads off road to get closer. Alex (the lion) is sitting under a tree, resting. He’s a pretty big male, and turns to check us out. The nervousness has dissipated and there are grins all over the truck. This is such a special day.

At lunch, Natalie requests we see a leopard. David grins “They are like gold, we will never see one”. We’re still grinning from Alex though J

Neatly rounding things off on the return trip, a bull elephant. Perhaps five or six tons, he’s a big chap. Just relaxing down by the watering hole. Three of the big five in one day, awesome!

Still heading back, poor Natalie. I’ve entered into bike talk with the three bikers. We’re not talking about travel tales really, just pure bike talk. It’s always enjoyable, but  not too great from Natalie. Mid chat though, David slams the brakes on hard. What the!? There’s dust everywhere and he slams it in reverse. “Leopard leopard leopard!!!”. It’s quite magnificent, and not worried by us at all. There’s clambering to see it, it’s interested in some mongoose. The dream!

It’s been a pretty special morning, and I’ll happily take four of the big five, esp if the one we’ve missed is buffalo.

After all the excitement, we just need to hang by the pool all afternoon....

Day 62: Rundu – Etosha, 10,000^th mile

Brilliantly, all our wet stuff has dried overnight! High five. I do a bit of bike maintenance, and then we’re off. We’ve got about 240 miles to cover to the park, and the road is pretty much arrow straight L But it’s easy to cover the ground, and before we know it we’re approaching Etosha NP. And a good indication we’re closing on the park is the massive stag impala(?) we spot, it’s magnificent. Excitedly we roll up to the park, and are turned away, no bikes allowed. But there’s a lodge right by the gate, and as we head down I spot a group of three bikers ahead, and Natalie spots a group of zebra and wilder beast, sweet.

At the camp we say hello to the other bikers, two Canadians and one Safa, all friendly guys. We bunch together to get group discount. The lodge is fantastic, a swimming pool, beautiful huts, restaurant and a nice bar overlooking the watering hole. It’s a brilliant evening, lots of smiles and some wine.

It’s early to bed, but just in time to see the most amazing and best shooting star ever! The safari starts at 06:30...

Day 61: Kongola – Rundu

What a start to the day, we’re off on a boat in search of hippos at eight, and it’s a brilliant way to start the day. The wetlands are teaming with life, from cranes, eagles and antelope, to the previously mentioned hippos.

The hippos are all fully submerged, but they take great interest in us and our boat. There’s probably about ten of them, and when we get a little closer one of the females decides to lets us know that that’s close enough. A display of aggression, which you might easily mistake for just a giant yawn! Brilliant!

Heading back to the lodge, we do get caught in a little shower. It’s not the end of the world, but it does encourage us to have a nice breakfast before setting off.

There’s not much to report from the road, we cover approx 240 miles, we do see a pretty cool snake which I immediately think is a black mamba (more likely just something random and harmless) and loads of donkeys J

Into the lodge/campsite, and once setup, it’s still light. So we duck into pool with a couple of beers. Later on, we’re treated to the most amazing lightening storm, it’s mesmerising. That is until about two hours into it the rain comes. And as it was bone dry earlier, I haven’t put the rain sheet on the tent! Sprinting through the light rain, it quickly turns to a full on downpour. I throw the rain sheet on, but it’s too late. Wet sleeping bags and tent L The situation is salvaged though, with two dry towels and one mainly dry sleeping bag, there’s just enough for two to get comfy and off to sleep.

Night night!

Day 60: Choma – Kongola

A wild elephant! Sweet! I pull up next to the cute guy, and Natalie starts taking pics. He’s even opening up his ears! Oh, he’s opening up his ears, that means he’s going to charge...

Another, amazing, day.

We don’t know where we’re going to end up, or what’s going to happen, but we’re on the road by about seven. The roads thus far haven’t been much to write about, I’m hoping things get better for Natalie. We stop in Livingstone for fuel for Kirsty, brunch for us, and a cushion for Natalie’s bum. Fuel for K-Dog is easy, and we’re pretty easily fed at the ‘Hungry Lion’ chicken house. And then we end up buying a teddy bear (we call Weird Bear, or Weirdo for short) as a seat cushion. It’s been a good stop!

Now though, we’re heading for Vic Falls. As we pass the sign for the waterfall, I see a plastic elephant, no worries. But Natalie yelps, it’s real! A frickin wild elephant! We spin around for a closer look, and see his mates, unbelievable! Spinning around to see the first elephant again, he looks amazing. Being a bit wet behind the ears with these things, I pull up near him. He’s chilled for about two seconds, then seeing us, or hearing Kirsty, he flares his ears. It’s an amazing site, and it doesn’t seem threatening , but by the time my brain kicks in that it is a threat, the big fella has decided he’d rather run than stay. Wow, that was quite an experience, and we ain’t even in a park!

Next up, Vic Falls! Def worth the visit. It’s extremely dramatic, and we’ve come when the water level is low, but it’s still enthralling and completely devastating to see.

Anyway, waterfall box ticked, we might actually be able to cross the border into Namibia today. So we set off in search of another new country. And before you know it, we’re stamping out, and stamping in. I must say, the quickest border crossing I’ve ever experienced in Africa. Other than my small screw up, turning up with no local currency. I need to pay for road tax, but they won’t accept anything other than Namibian Dollars. OK, back to Zam, quick forex, back to Nam. We should make Kongola just before nightfall. And we do, with half an hour to spare. Looking around, we drop in to one of two lodges. They offer camping, £8pppn, but they have a lodge we can pop out to to eat on. And, the lodge, is amazing! You could come here on your honeymoon. We’re picked up in a sweet Landcruiser, and taken into the lodge. A three storey viewing platform seems perfect for watching the sunset and drinking our first beer. And, unthinkably, a hippo decides now is the perfect time to wander out of the water and stroll underneath us. My first ever hippo viewing!

OK, enough is enough, I’m not going to bore you with how brilliant the rest of the evening is, but we’re booked in for a hippo boat cruise tomorrow, so I’m off to beds!

Day 59: Lusaka – Choma, Namibia

Kirsty, whilst having two sets of foot pegs and a longish seat, isn’t really meant for two, and it’s a bit of a concern how she’ll manage the next 1100 miles two up, but there’s only really one way to find out...

As it’s the first day, we’re only going to ride for about 100 miles or so, kind of like a test run. A few minor things have to be ditched to allow enough room for two. So off goes the spare fuel can (we shouldn’t need it from here on...) and one of the two front spare inner tubes. I’ve already ditched a few other bits and bobs along the way, so the only things we need to strap on our Natalie’s backpack and sleeping bag. The panniers have handy loops on their lids in each corner, so strapping everything on is a synch. We next practice climbing on and off, and I mean climbing. Kirsty is a very tall motorbike, and Natalie has to climb off backwards, easier said than done. It’s a bit of a tight squeeze, but we’re on, and Kirsty isn’t adversely affected too much. The suspension actually works a little better, giving us a smoother ride, but we need to leave a bit more room for braking.

Heading out of Lusaka, it’s a perfect day for riding, and the roads are good. There isn’t much to say about animals or the countryside, but we stop for a wiggle every 60 miles or so, and actually end up doing just over 200 miles. It really helps getting the odd neck massage from my passenger too J  Kirsty and Natalie have been brilliant.

The campsite we eventually find is a bit odd, I don’t think they get many customers, but a group of friendly kids come to see what’s going on. And as I’ve got a Frisbee tucked away in Kirsty, it’s a great opportunity for a game! Whoop!

Vic Falls tomorrow...

Day 58: Lusaka –

Time to check out, Kirtsy is all prepared and packed by midmorning, and then we roll off and check in to the Radisson Blu. Sweet! After two months living in sheds and tents, a proper hotel is so nice, hot clean shower, towels, everything you could dream off!

We pick Natalie up about one o’clock, it’s great to see her after two months and there’s big grins all around J. Back to the hotel, it’s just us, the pool and some cocktails....

Day 57: Lusaka –

A few pics from the wildlife sanctuary, which is pretty much all I’ve done today, our guest arrives tomorrow....

Day 56: Lusaka –

If you have exceptionally low expectations, you’ll probably be nicely impressed by the Zambian Museum in Lusaka. It is without doubt the worst museum I’ve ever been to. To the point of amusement. But I guess at least they have one.

I get the new tyre, I haggle down from 2.0 million to 1.6 million (£235 to £188). So just about acceptable (approx £150 in the UK). But it’s an absolute wanker to fit. After about an hour I’m there, but I now have a brilliant ‘trailer trash’ look. Dirty jeans tucked into motorcycle boots, filthy greasy t-shirt, greasy black hands, grease on my face, longish unkempt hair and an untrimmed overgrown moustache. Sweet look.

We heard from Rob a few days ago, he'd made it to Jungle Junction in Nairobi. I was very impressed to hear he made it down the A2 ('The Worst Road in Africa'), and happy to hear he was OK too. He then sent me the following about his bike:

• You would have laughed your ass off following me picking up the pieces that shook loose on the corrugation or simply ripped off on rocks - ok, take a deep breath, now try to imagine riding behind me, watching my bike coming out of the soft sand, hitting the corrugations, then maybe a huge pothole or two... which causes me to blow the suspension hose again.
  Ok, just a quick repair, right? Well a little while down the road on the corrugation, one of the nuts on the rear shock sheers off - overloading and compressing the second shock... basically I am now riding the corrugations on the "WRIA" as a hard-tail - no suspension at all.
  I can hear you giggling...And without suspension it's only a matter of time before all the bolts work loose... and then the Windscreen (fell off) / The all the headlights (fell off) / One saddle bag (fell off) / A hole ripped into the Exhaust / the pill-on seat melted (turns out the rear tire was scraping against the fender on ever bump - apparently to the melting point - oh yeah, rear tire is toast / A couple pieces of trim fell off: muffler heat shield, the bit that locks around the headlight, the entire Speedo unit. And then... the center stand rips off on a rock - and... the bolt that mounts the center stand to the frame tore through the sump. Fortunately for me, I discovered the oil leak after the Maxi-Fuse rattled apart and the bike shut down. I also came off pretty hard and bent up the engine guard. I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things, it was a rough few days. 

So well done for making it!

Tomorrow I’m going to hit the Wanda Munda wildlife sanctuary...

Day 55: Lusaka –

The tyre eludes us by one day, an email from the KTM shop to say the one they thought they had in stock was sold that morning. No worries, there’s another one in another shop, double the money though...

So, I decide to take another look at the carb on Kirsty, perhaps I can find the reason it sometimes sticks a little, fingers crossed. Then tomorrow I’ll get that other tyre fitted, and Thursday I’ll visit the wildlife sanctuary up the road...

Day 54: Lusaka –

KTMs rock! Although my hand laundry skills don’t! There’s a dealer in town who has a tire, and perhaps a small component for my carb, a good result.

But I hand wash some laundry, and um, I think the clothes come out dirtier...

So, tire fitting tomorrow :)

Here are some new friends at the hostel:J

Day 53: Lusaka –

Well, we’re here a little early, so it’s just a bit of time to follow some sports events (final F1 race of the season), and um, do some eating and drinking. And we have a bit of feline company:

Day 52: Saranje – Lusaka

Not many miles to do today, it’s plain sailing into Lusaka, and once inside the (small) city limits, I turn the GPS on to guide me to my accommodation.

I did manage to get another ticket today, although this purely wasn’t my fault (maybe a little!). Rolling up to the police check point, I ride slowly past the stationary traffic. This is exactly what I’ve been doing for the last five or so check points, and based upon the encouragement of the police officers. They aren’t really interested in bikers. But this time, the cop takes exception, and flags me down like a Wildman. Energetically he asks for my passport, he hands it back, not happy and asks for my drivers licence. I hand him my International Drivers Permit, and presumably he wasn’t expecting it? He walks off, IDP in hand, and continues about his day. I don’t really want to sit here all day whilst he decides what he’d like to do. So, in my most confrontational manor I ask him if he’s going to do anything with my licence, or just stand with it in his hand.

He’s enraged, and storms to the guy sat in a car, “Write him a fine, you saw what he did!”. And hands over my IDP to the other cop. This guy is bewildered and writes a ticket for approx £20, sighting ‘Careless driving’. There’s no arguing, a fine for the sake of a fine (although I’m sure I’m not 100% innocent). Paid up and ready to leave, I manage to get the last (juvenile) word in. I walk up to the cop, shake his hand and say “You, are like a child”. I jump on Kirsty and ride off as quickly as I can! And then spend the next 40 minutes thinking how stupid all that was...

Day 51: Mbaya – Serenje, Zambia

For once, not much to report! The border was reached in about an hour, and passed very easily. It was quite busy, queues of tankers, but I swept by them and fumbled my way through the system. A fixer offered his services, but I declined, then immediately wished I’d used him, but was then glad I didn’t. It was a piece of cake!

Excited about being in Zambia, another new country, and I’m heading cautiously deeper into the land. The roads are pretty quiet, and occasionally there are pothole fields. The scenery is reminiscent of England and the South Downs, but on a much larger scale. To give you an idea of how little there is to report, I haven’t taken a single pic.

I did have a small repair to carry out, one of the fuel filters failed and was leaking. So I removed it and fortunately there was enough fuel line to make up the gap. And we managed to cover about 480 miles today!

Some odd thoughts I had today were about me being here. It’s quite often the case that I’m the only white person, and I often stop in odd locations due to time of day (for fuel, bed, food). The stops aren’t really on the tourist route. Sometimes it’s quite funny, people just staring. I don’t know if it’s because they’ve never seen a white person before, or someone in such bad clothes, or someone with such a stupid moustache. Speaking of which, Mr.Mo is starting to get out of control! I have to start considering the reality of trimming him (unlikely with my poor selection of cutting implements), or getting rid of him completely. I guess it’ll be the later, although I’ll miss looking more stupid than usual and hope it doesn’t take anything away from my personality...

I should also point out, that the locals speak better English than about 80% of Brits!

Lusaka tomorrow, I’ve got to try and get a new rear tyre, and clean Kirsty and myself up in readiness for our guest...

Btw, how many legs does one creature need!?

Day 50: Morogoro – Mbaya

I’m getting bored of saying ‘What an amazing day’, but today has been pretty cool. And it’s amazing the different experiences you can pack into one day.

On the road by 0700, there isn’t much to report initially. Quite a few baboons kicking about, but nothing too exciting, until we pass through the Mikuni National Park. I get held up by wild giraffes who are hanging out with a couple of zebra! I’m so excited, a brilliant start! We also see some other type of monkey and some gazelle.  Although the gazelle are too flighty to be caught on camera.

The weather’s good, and we’re having a really nice days riding. Tanzania is a funny country, I keep thinking it doesn’t have much to offer, cosmetically, and then I remember Kilimanjaro! There are some small mountain ranges to give me some eye candy, and I’m offered some graceful mountain roads. Not as much fun as Ethiopia’s, but a good effort.  It’s not all good though, I am forced off the road three times today by oncoming buses/trucks. And these guys weren’t slowing to help me out either. I can see how easy it would be to have a head collision if you were momentarily checking out the scenery...

After the mountain roads it’s just cruising south, passing through various small villages, within one we get another ticket. Same process as before...

A few miles later, we stop for fuel. And bump into three other motorcycle overlanders. They are  a German couple and a Belgian guy. We say our hellos, have a brief chat about conditions where we’ve come from (they’re heading north) and then they’re off. They’ve advised me of a massive section of road works and an accident ahead. And they’re not wrong. Brilliantly, the road is being built and used at the same time. Luckily I can skip the tail back (about three miles) and ride through the road works. Safely out the other side, there’s the oddest situation I’ve ever seen. The embankment on my right is very steep, and it seems a lorry has driven close to the edge and it’s trailer has started to slip down. So a truck, going the same way, but on the other side of the road has tied it’s trailer to the one trying to depart down the slope. Brilliantly, the trailer going down the slope is obviously heavier and has pulled the second trailer almost onto it’s side. It’s been stopped though, by a third truck, going the same way as me. This truck is tied to the other side of the second truck’s trailer. And now, you have three lorries blocking the road, tied together, with lots of people standing around and no one knowing what to do without losing the first trailer. Yikes!

Later on, there are hugely evil clouds hanging above the mountains ahead. We’ve skirted around them most of the day, but it seems we’re heading through. And the rain is immense, massive drops smashing into the tarmac and me. Thankfully I threw my rainsuit on mere minutes ago, but the tip of my nose is just exposed and the odd droplet smashes into that too. Ouch! I’m now riding with my left hand covering the tip of my nose, it’s really sore!

60 miles to Zambia tomorrow, fingers crossed for an easy exit and entry!

Day 49: Moshi – Morogoro

What to say about today? Well, in reality, we’ve got 1500 miles to cover in nine days to meet my friend in Lusaka. Whilst not insurmountable or a massive challenge, it’s still a lot of miles to cover in Africa, on a battle scared bike. So we’d best start early.

By 0800 I’m on the road, and as if the sky has been asleep too, there’s Kilimanjaro in all it’s glory. I must admit, I preferred the mystique of having part of the mountain hidden by cloud, but half an hour later it is. The sky seemingly having risen and taken on it’s old foe.

Safety is always my number one priority when riding, everything else follows. But here, with the warning from Christophe ringing in my ears, I’m being extra vigilant. But to be honest, it hasn’t proven to be any more difficult/dangerous than any other African country. But still, stay focused. Especially as I had one of the worst night’s sleep ever, maybe three hours in total. But Tanzania is a pleasant travel partner. Whilst not having the mountain roads and outright beauty of Ethiopia, it is still very beautiful, with plains and small mountain ranges. But what clinches it, is the people. Happy to help without constantly wanting cash. So far on this trip, the majority of the time when people approach you, they want money. So I’m pretty much like a closed book to approaches from people, but the locals I’ve met so far have all seemed genuine with no hidden agenda.

Late morning I stop for fuel, and notice one of the luggage bolts is loose. Trying to tighten it, it isn’t loose, it’s sheered. Like the other side. Generously the petrol pump attendant takes me to a mechanic, and before long we’re drilling out the other side of K-Dog’s frame. I’m a bit concerned, because there is quite a crowd gathering  to watch the sweaty white guy drilling his bike, and in Ethiopia this went missing from people’s bikes very quickly. Within the hour, I’m back on the road, and with all my tools. Thanks random mechanic guy!

I managed to pick up my third (only second I’ve paid though) speeding ticket. And bearing in mind I was going to fast to stop in time for the officer, it was a fair cop! Although, they said the fine was 60,000TSH (approx £30). I’ve got a wad of cash, I pull it out of my pocket and count out the 60k. With the cash in my hand, I ask for a receipt, and the long and short of it is that the cop said, ‘OK, no receipt, 30k TSH’. Sweet, no argument from me, but have I just helped aid corruption!? Hmm..

We finish up on about 350 miles, which is good as we need to average 140-180 per day. And we’ll have a border crossing soon which will need some consideration.

More miles tomorrow peeps!