Day 33: Wadi Halfa – Kerma

Happy Bonfire Night! In eager anticipation of the ferry, we’re eating breakfast at half seven, hoping for the boat’s arrival at half eight. The plan is, get the bikes and try and make it south of Dongola, approx 250 miles.

The barge sails into view at about half ten. No great surprise! And our bikes surrounded by boxes of shipments isn’t either, but the freestanding oven and hob that is sitting atop Rob’s bike wasn’t expected...We set about unloading some of the barges other goods, so we can get access to the bikes and get them off. It only takes half an hour or so (there’s three of us now). And once unloaded, the fixer asks for a tip for the barge staff. We’re not too impressed and politely decline.

The paperwork is pretty easy, and we’re on the road by about oneish. Everyone is very excited. This is brilliant! And it’s pretty hard to get lost, as the town only has one road in and out. We’re soon flying along, the tarmac is good, and the desert enthralling. Although, it isn’t a classic desert, there’re plenty of rock outcrops and small hills. Still, it’s good fun riding, and great to be on the road. Fuel isn’t as cheap as Egypt, but £4 for 125 miles is quite good value.

About 50 miles out of town, we catch Chris, the guy walking to Somaliland. It was 39c in the shade when we left, I can’t believe this guy. He’s pulling a small trolley with his stuff in it, and heading through the desert. He’s aiming for 30mpd (miles per day!). We all stop and say hello, giving him bottles of water and a pair of sunglasses (he’s lost his). As we set off, and we head up the road, I’ve got to admit I’m concerned for his safety. He’s about 28 and from near Scarborough, and it’s impossible for him to carry enough food and water through this section. He’s completely reliant on water from passing traffic. Reassuringly, he’s been offered lifts from locals and plenty of water thus far, but fingers crossed for him...

50 miles later, and we’re catching the cyclists. These guys are in good form, but the sun is already taking it’s toll. They said their thermometer read over 45c yesterday.. Again, food and water is handed over, and they’ve broken their stove, so I donate mine (I’m not the biggest fan of camping, so it’s no great sacrifice. I can’t describe how tough this must be, it’ll take Chris at least 17 days to get to Khartoum, the cyclist probably ten days, but all through desert. Good luck amigos...

We buzz on until the sun starts to set, we haven’t made Dongola, so we turn off and head into the dust to wild camp. We’re in farmland, so we can’t go just anywhere, but down a path is a small dusty patch we can use apparently. Following Roy and Avril (the aussies), both Rob and Robroy (our new biker buddy from SA) come off their bikes in the pretty tough dust. It’s very light and makes it tricky as it directs the front wheel the way it wants to go, rather than the way you want it to go. But after half an hour of battling, we make it to the spot and set camp under the stars. Literally. There’s no man made light, and the moon isn’t anywhere to be seen. And as there’s no chance of rain, I have no flysheet over the tent. As I lie back, I’m looking straight up at the stars, and listening to the odd donkey!